I spent my first 16 years in a Nepalese refugee camp. This year, I returned to trek Mount Everest

I spent my first 16 years in a Nepalese refugee camp. This year, I returned to trek Mount Everest
  • PublishedMay 26, 2024

Ram Khanal’s recent trip to Mount Everest base camp was the realisation of a long-held dream. But it was also a homecoming of sorts.

Ram, now 31, spent the first 16 years of his life in a crowded UN camp for Bhutanese refugees in eastern Nepal.

In 2009, he was resettled in Australia. Despite arriving with no formal education, Ram was dux in year 12 and studied to become a doctor.

In March, Ram returned to Nepal for the first time to visit the world’s highest mountain and the camp where he was born. Here is his story, in his own words.

Why I wanted to trek to Everest base camp

Ram Khanal smiles while standing in front of a snow-capped mountain.
The views of snow-capped mountains were a highlight of the trek.(Supplied)

I’d been thinking about returning to Nepal for about a year. I needed an excuse, and there’s none better than the iconic Mount Everest base camp trek.

I love mountains. I’m an avid hiker with a fair bit of experience in Australia, but Mount Everest is the ultimate.

Because it’s in the country of my birth, it also holds a special appeal to me.

People have these conceptions of what a person from Nepal should be like — usually it involves lots of trekking experience and being comfortable climbing mountains.

Unfortunately, that was never an experience I had. When I was in Nepal, I never really had the chance to see anything outside the confines of the camp.

On this trip, I just wanted to return to explore the country, explore the mountains and reconnect with the country of my birth without feeling captive as I did in my past.

My journey from Kathmandu to Mount Everest by road

Most overseas tourists fly to Kathmandu and then fly to the airport in Lukla to get to Everest.

We chose the road less travelled, literally and figuratively.

We took a Jeep from Kathmandu to a place called Salleri, which serves as an alternative gateway to the Everest region. Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary, the first two people to reach the summit of Mount Everest, took the same route.

The trip to Salleri took about 12 hours. The travel was very bumpy on roads riddled with potholes. There were 10 of us cramped in what I would describe as a five-seat SUV. That was a bit of an experience; it was adventurous but also unnerving.

From there, we took another audacious eight-hour SUV ride to Paiya, from where we set out for the base camp trek on the third day. We trekked for six days, staying in teahouses along the way.

The base camp sits at 5,364 metres. That’s quite an altitude. The key is to acclimatise to the conditions. That comes with time and a slow ascent.

I was mesmerised by the people, the culture, the hospitality and the landscape.

There were beautiful rivers and 360-degree views of snow-capped mountain peaks as far as the eye can see. Other highlights included the cultural landmarks, monasteries, waterfalls and the incredible suspension bridges.

What it was like to reach Mount Everest

Ram Khanal smiles and gives the thumbs up in front of a sign at Mount Everest base camp.
I felt an immense sense of achievement after reaching the base camp.(Supplied)

When we reached the base camp, it felt like we were on top of the world and following the footsteps of legends like Norgay and Hillary.

The panoramic views of Mount Lhotse, Nuptse, Pumori and Ama Dablam were incredible.

Along the way, we passed through a memorial of all the mountaineers who had died in the Everest region. It was a sobering reminder of the dangers of high-altitude climbing.

I couldn’t sleep very well afterwards, because I kept thinking about the risks of acute mountain sickness.

We saw a lot of people getting rescued by helicopters closer to the base camp. But we were well-prepared, and I didn’t find the trek that difficult.

It’s just about being aware of the challenges in altitude, having appropriate gear and being aware of your own health.

What happened when I returned to the refugee camp where I was born

I’m not unfamiliar to human struggles and living in poverty and scarcity, but my time spent in Nepal made me reflect on how lucky we are and how privileged a life we live here in Australia.

Some of the porters and guides who are in the Everest region, they make 1,800 rupees a day, which is roughly $20. They are carrying 40-50kg on their back, with no supporting clothing or gear.

After I finished the trek, I visited the refugee camp where I was born.

I could see my past, and where I am now; the contrast between the hardships and confinements of the camp, and the freedom, opportunities and success I’ve had since coming to Australia.

I had empathy for the people there, but I also felt empowered. I found motivation to continue advocating for their human rights and basic necessities — and perhaps one day be able to use my medical training to provide health education and services.

Looking for the next adventure

My trip to the Everest region gave myself a glimpse of what’s possible when you put your heart and mind into it.

It also kindled a greater interest in mountain adventures. I find a great sense of relaxation in being in the mountains and hiking in nature.

Now that I’m back in Australia, I’m already planning my next trip to Nepal.

I hope to return for the Annapurna base camp, another iconic trekking experience. I’m sure it won’t be the last.

SOURCE: ABCNEWS

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